From the Alps, Second Esterházy Castle

Friday 13.8.2010

Back from the Alps. On the way we stopped at a castle which also belongs to the Esterházys. This one, though, was much more militant than the one on Wednesday, which was more of a residential palace. This castle was like a fortress, and today is something of a military museum. Our Hungarian tour guide took us through rooms where lots of weapons and armor and hussars’ riding leather (bridles, saddles, saddlebags) are on display. Unfortunately most things were behind glass and the reflection combined with my cheap camera made for poor photographs. We also went through the kitchen and looked at what they used to cook. The culmination of the tour was a very deep well, which was used for all sorts of sound experiments. We dropped water and coins into it and marveled at the time it took the sound of the impact to reach us. Kathy had us all gather round and sing happy birthday to Amanda into the well. The tour guide had this plastic sheet thing that he used to sort of “whip” air into the well, and it bounced off the walls and echoed all the way down. There was also a magnificent view from the castle walls.

The Esterházy castle had a lot of weapons. Among the many photos I snapped was one of a pretty giant sword.

          We also stopped at a very old medieval castle dating from the mid-twelfth century. It was being renovated, so we couldn’t go in, but we did get to go into this courtyard thing before a guy came and kicked us out. Surrounding the castle were these beautiful dark green woods, got some pictures, very nice and European, makes me think of Arthurian legend a little. I photographed a very big snail, for what it’s worth. Outside the castle on the lawn was a display of modern art by what I’m guessing are African artists for sale. It was far too expensive for me (cheapest piece I saw was €400) but it was interesting to note the contrast of old and new, since the art did seem very modern, and the castle, as I’ve said, was nearly 900 years old.

          We decided to skip the Heurige since we have a three-day weekend and most people are getting up early to travel, and didn’t want to be up too late. I didn’t want to travel, and would have preferred to go to a Heurige, but whatever.

          Back home, I walked with Daryl through the rain and looked at the lightning. It was lovely. We got soaked, but walking through the rain has always had a certain appeal for me, and lightning was magnificent. We went up on a roof above the library near our apartment and watched the show. Very cool. On the way back they were locking up, but the Viennese who worked in the café were very helpful in directing us back to the ground. Always a pleasant surprise in Vienna.